New alternatives to cosmetics preservation
INCI Name: P Anisic Acid
Benefits: Antimicrobial, odour-masking, skin softening.
Applications: Naturally derived preservative system, fragrance, skin conditioning.
Origin: Plant (basil)
Solubility: Water Soluble.
Use Level: 0.05–0.3% and at pH of between 4.5–5.5. Add to the water phase and heat to around 80C to fully dissolve the powder. Pre Dissolving with Glycerine can also help ensure that the acid is solubilised.
General Information: P anisic acid is a multifunctional cosmetic ingredient that can aid in odour masking and product preservation. It is suitable for both rinse-off and leave-on cosmetic products and is effective at a low level. Anti-microbially tests have found it to have a broad spectrulm activity with particular efficacy against mould. However, in order to get the best results most formulations will require a second preservative to boost efficacy, especially where the free water levels are high. It is also worth noting that p-anisic acid will not work at pH above 5.5.
Formulating Tip: This ingredient works really well with the glyceryl caprylate to give broad-spectrum protection.
P-Anisic acid and 4-methoxybenzoic acid are both the same thing. The chemical is described by EWG.org as being a low hazard. It’s not described as an environmental toxin and is relatively safe to use in skin care cosmetics.
4-methoxybenzoic acid is an antiseptic. Anise is a good source of p-anisic acid. The compound is used in sunscreen and hair products as well as in some skin care products that are used to erase fine lines.
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